★★★½ (3½ out of 4)
I’ve always had a special place in my heart for “The Bear,” even when you fair-weather customers started acting like disgruntled food critics about seasons 3 and 4 after all the shouting that greeted the Emmy-winning first two seasons. Now “The Bear,” streaming its fifth and final season on FX on Hulu, closes the door with the unenviable task of doing justice to characters we’ve come to know and love even when they exasperate the hell out of us. That’s always been part of the deal in creator Christopher Storer’s kitchen confidential.